Italienische Reise

  • Stages: 32

The portrait of Cavaliere Filangieri, author of the Science of Legislation: soldier, cavalier and man of the world, tempered by fine moral feeling.

Museo Civico Gaetano Filangieri, Via Duomo 288, 80138 Napoli

A full-moon night on the Chiaia, «that endless promenade», and then back and forth along the shore: beyond telling, it gives a feeling of the infiniteness of space.

Riviera di Chiaia, 80121 Napoli

The second Sunday in Lent, from church to church: in Rome everything is solemn, here all is merry.

Complesso dei Girolamini, Via Duomo 142, 80138 Napoli

Three views from the sea: the sails of the Palermo frigate vanishing between Capri and Capo Minerva; the dawn of the departure for Sicily, with Kniep drawing the coasts; and on the return, on 14 May, the most beautiful sunset of the journey and the current driving the ship towards the cliffs of Capri, to the brink of shipwreck.

Area Marina Protetta Punta Campanella, Massa Lubrense (NA)

Instead of Vesuvius, a boat trip to Pozzuoli with the Prince of Waldeck: «the clearest sky above, the most unstable ground below».

Solfatara, Via Solfatara 161, 80078 Pozzuoli (NA)

First visit to Jakob Philipp Hackert, the landscape painter favoured by the king and queen, who lives in a wing of the Palazzo Francavilla: a man who combines incessant work with the enjoyment of life.

Via Chiaia 139, 80121 Napoli

«Alla Locanda del Sgr.

Piazza Municipio, 80133 Napoli

A halt at Capua, then the broad road through wheat «like a carpet», poplars and vines strung like nets, with smoking Vesuvius always on the left.

Capua (CE)

After crossing the Garigliano on the Via Appia, Goethe enters the land that is today Campania: fertile fields, the first hill of volcanic ash, mountains crowned with snow.

Sant'Agata, Sessa Aurunca (CE)

With Tischbein at Pompeii: straight streets, windowless houses, public buildings like models, yet walls painted with a taste that belongs to a whole people.

Parco Archeologico di Pompei, Via Villa dei Misteri 2, 80045 Pompei (NA)